As soon as we sampled Lara Lindsay and Mike Orme’s unique cuisine as part of Made.com’s pop-up launch in Quakers Friars back in January, we knew Bristol was in for a real treat once the duo found themselves a permanent home from which to dish out their delicious, Scandi-influenced fare.
That home, discovered recently within Mivart Street Studios near St Marks Road in Easton – a redbrick former Victorian factory now housing many of the area’s creative sorts – couldn’t be more suited to them.
Clean and simple, in the Norse way, the interior is decked it out with standard-issue timber tables, teal tiles and abundant greenery à la mode; the factory feel still somewhat intact. On the night we visited, the place was a pleasant level of packed, resulting in a comforting, low hubbub matching the warmly low-lit room.
Our Sauvignon de Touraine and Les Galets Rouge arrived in stocky, rounded tumblers – the former a light and fragrant start to Friday night, and the latter a spicy cinnamon and star anise-infused little number that, in contrast, made us long for Christmas.
Taking instruction from the name of this Easton eatery (‘share’ in Swedish) we opted for a platter of the Danish sourdough pancakes which come with four different fillings. The rich pig’s cheek and celeriac remoulade was particularly flavoursome, and shovelled into the sourdough discs – which could have done with being a touch less brittle, to make for more effective receptacles – alongside spoonfuls of sweet pickled mushroom, mustard seeds, sorrel and soured cream. While we found ourselves squabbling over the last smears of the smooth squash, radish, seed and soft herb salsa that came in the tallest ceramic pot; happily my dining companion was so distracted by the pig that I had the super citrusy, lemony-fresh sea bass ceviche, with vibrant pickled beetroot and dill, mostly to myself.
Having spied the hasselback new potatoes (thinly sliced but not separated from the base of the potato) at a neighbouring table, we thought we ought to get some of those for good measure – and with dreamy accompaniments of soft goat’s curd, griddled courgette strips, a deliciously caramelised nut crumb, and garlic and chive butter, it was a hearty choice.
Rose-poached pear frangipane tart with ambrosial spiced ricotta was a fine and fruity finale – underlining our quickly-drawn conclusions that indeed, as well as style, creativity, expertise and individuality, Dela has soul.