Wallace & Gromit, cider and pork, hot air balloons and sunrises… some of the south west’s finest things come as a pair. And, as Rosanna Spence discovered on one recent long, hot summer’s evening visiting The Ox and The Milk Thistle back to back – two of Bristol’s most-loved venues are best enjoyed as a duo, too
Ordering more than one course for dinner is often what sets apart a quick meal on the go or rustling something up at home from a special occasion, right? Wandering over to the fridge an hour after digesting your tea, or inspecting the freezer to dig out what remains from the desolate depths of a tired Ben & Jerry’s tub doesn’t exactly have the same sparkle as pushing past your too-tight jeans to gallantly say ‘You know what, I will actually take a look at that dessert menu, please’. And why stop at multiple courses for things you’ll simply consume? It’s been a long, hot summer so far, so we decided to pull out all the stops one evening and hit up not one, but two of the city’s finest establishments known for providing a delicious setting to host intimate conversations with those you love, respect and care for the most – or are simply overdue some focused catch-up time with.
The Ox on Corn street is renowned for being one the best places for serving good quality steak (and more) in the city, then just around the corner is The Milk Thistle – which has been shaking and stirring some of the most exciting cocktails in the city for 15 years.
Spending an overly warm evening in these admittedly cosy venues might not be the first thought that comes to mind… however the weather took an unexpected grey, blustery and drizzly turn – meaning me and my dinner date (this fine publication’s web and digital editor India Farnham, no less) sought sanctuary in both The Ox and The Milk Thistle without a thought about the temperatures beyond the walls.
There’s something ceremonious about heading out for a steak date, platonic or otherwise, and descending into Corn Street’s underbelly at The Ox marks the beginning of a tried and tested ritual. The lighting is soft. The tables smart. The chatter buzzy yet intimate. Though not every table was set for duos – plenty of groups of four and more were dotted around – much of our meal was ideal for a pair. First up two cocktails. I stuck to a smoky theme with our server’s recommendation (and top of the signature list) Ox Mother: a perfectly punchy and zesty blend of La Travesia Mezcal, Aperitivo Rues, Agave, and Peach and Orange bitters. India went for something sweeter, Break Stuff – Takamaka Spiced Rum, Fair Coffee Liqueur, Bristol Syrup Co. Passionfruit Syrup and cinnamon Tincture. Both pours were simple and smart (we commented on how we felt like a character in Mad Men sipping away) and got our appetites rumbling, but we didn’t have to wait long before our first snack.
Two bites of deliciously crispy croquetas filled with leek and smoked cheese. There was more smoke to come, too, in the form of charred sourdough toast served with roast bone marrow, caramelised onion and aged parmesan. We split the glutenous, rich mixture from the bone with a spoon and spread it on the bread, which we halved. I’ll be honest, the conversation dropped off at this point, but only because we were both too focused on our plates.
Two steaks followed (a 9oz ribeye and 6oz fillet, both helpfully explained by our server in terms of fat content and how best to have them cooked), alongside triple-cooked chips, charcoal-roasted mushrooms with herby persillade bone marrow and garlic butters, and green peppercorn and chimichurri sauces. All washed down with a bright, fruity glass of Gamay. Quite the feast. We had just enough room for two velvety scoops of ice cream (even the vanilla got an audible sigh from India); I went for a scoop of salted caramel, burnt white chocolate and pecan. A smouldering meal from start to finish, surrounded by soft acoustics and good chats. We finally looked at our phones in disbelief that two hours had flown by. We didn’t want the evening to end.
And, it’ll be no of surprise to anyone who’s been paying attention until now, that it didn’t have to. A quick duck out back into that sideways summer drizzle (cheers, Brizzle) led us around the corner to the mysterious plain door of the red brick Quay Head House on Colston Avenue – aka one of Bristol’s stalwart cocktail hangouts, The Milk Thistle. We pressed the buzzer, and waited.
Inside, the historic building comes complete with antique wood panelling, original stained glass windows and, of course, George the giant elk presiding over proceedings from his mount on the wall all hinting at the venue’s past dealings with Merchant Venturers. We sat in the main bar, and did get a little tour of the other rooms that offer spill-out space on busier days and can be hired for private events (including an underground whisky vault that I’m definitely eyeing up for my birthday).
The speakeasy’s interior hasn’t changed much since I’ve visited over the years, and it’s certainly not lost any of its cheeky charm (as long as taxidermy’s your thing). Nestling down into the red banquette seating, we were talked through the ‘dreadful tea party’-themed menu. I’ll admit I do miss The Milk Thistle’s old hand-drawn comic book-style menus of days past that depicted a long, chaotic day in the life of the aforementioned antlered George, but that’s not to do the current menu a disservice.
The signature serves start lighter, and progress to more ardent options as you flick through. There are useful tasting notes, eye-catching characters and even a full glossary at the back so you know what glass it’ll be served in. All the classics can be made if preferred, and we were reassured that as long as they had the ingredients – the skilled bartenders would do their best to make pretty much anything we wanted. There’s a changing specials menu, no- and low-alcohol options, beer, wine, cider… you name it.
But India was after something light and fragrant, so ordered a Two Suns – a light, clean and herbaceous blend of Roku Gin; coconut; cantaloupe, grapefruit and lemon tincture; fresh lemon and a foam top – served with a dusting of beetroot powder. I was after something strong, sweet and unusual, and was enticed by Breakfast at Milky: Mount Gay Black Barrel Rum, Bruichladdich Classic Laddie Whisky, Black Banana, Speyside Heather, Adjusted Ginger Ale and Banana Bread Air (which was like a gentle, sweet foam top, which made the serve look like a whimsical half pint of beer).
We settled down to sip and savour, held by the comfy seats and cosmic conversation that can only happen after a certain number of indulgent hours have passed. Outside, the remainder of a sweltering summer evening lazily heaved on, but inside we could have been anywhere in the world. It had been a night full of pairs, twos and duos – and The Ox and The Milk Thistle might just be my new favourite hot couple in town.
theoxbristol.com | milkthistlebristol.com
