Andrew Swift takes advantage of the recent reopening of a once notoriously closed iron bridge, to explore the lost gardens of Kings Weston and discover one of the most historic tracts of land found in our city
In November 2015, a footbridge spanning Kings Weston Road, built in 1821 to link the two parts of the Kings Weston Estate, was struck by a lorry, declared unsafe and closed. Despite vociferous calls for its speedy reinstatement and the formation of a Save the Iron Bridge campaign group, not until 2023 did work to restore it get under way. Finally, though, on 8 July this year, Kings Weston’s iron bridge – now raised a metre higher to keep it out of the way of errant lorries – was formally opened.
This seems an opportune time to take advantage of the reopened bridge to explore the lost gardens of Kings Weston, on a three and a half mile walk through one of the most historic tracts of land in Bristol, and one where nature now runs largely unchecked amid the rambling ruins of the past.
Explore the estate
The starting point – which you can get to either by car, bike or bus – is Shirehampton Park Car Park on Shirehampton Road (ST540771; BS11 0EA). Buses running past it include services 3, 4, 41 (First Bus) and 11 (Stagecoach West) – ask for the Penpole Lane stop.
At the far end of the car park you will find an information board as well as a leaflet dispenser. The leaflets not only provide loads of information on the history of the estate but also feature a useful map.
A few metres further on, turn left along a broad path into Penpole Wood. After passing a cricket ground on the left, you are confronted by a choice between three paths. Take the middle one, continue in the same direction and, when you come to the edge of the escarpment, bear left along it. Eventually, as the path leads into the open, you pass a ruinous wall on the left. This is all that survives of an ornamental lodge, built around 1723 and demolished in 1952. Ahead, on Penpole Point, is a compass dial and navigation marker, probably dating from the 17th century, which once enjoyed unrivalled views over the Severn estuary – views which, like so many others on the estate, are now hidden by trees.
From here, turn to head back past the ruined lodge. Just beyond it, turn left down rudimentary steps to follow a steep and narrow path, beset with fallen trees, diagonally down the escarpment. After negotiating a zigzag and a few broken-down stone steps at the bottom, turn right along a path through a grove of laurels. With tall trees above and below, and fern-hung rocky outcrops adding a note of mystery, this precipitous enclave is a magical spot.
After passing an area of recently cleared woodland, you come to a deep hollow on the right from which the stone to build Kings Weston House was quarried. It was later planted up as a romantic dell, with paths leading to a viewing mound from which its beauties could be surveyed. Over 250 years later, nature’s reclamation of this sequestered retreat is total.
A little further on, you come to a stony path. Turn left along it, and after a few paces you emerge from the woods to be confronted by the imposing facade of Kings Weston House ahead and – finally – a view of industrial Avonmouth and the Severn estuary to your left. Carry on, past a dog totem pole surmounted by a squirrel, along the north-west front of the house, where there is a cafe in the basement. Follow the drive as it curves right and then left past the Brew House to emerge through a gateway on Kings Weston Lane. There is a tricky road crossing here, as you want to head along Napier Miles Road. The best option is to stand well to the right of the gateway, which will give you a clearer view of traffic from the left – but you will still need to be patient.
Carry on deep into woodland
A little way along Napier Miles Road are Kings Weston’s former stables, on the left, and an overgrown lily pond, flanked by two lodges, on the right – all dating from 1763. Carry on along the road for another 50m, before following a footpath sign through a kissing gate on the left. When the path emerges into a field, turn right along a grassy track running parallel to the road.
At the end, continue along a narrow track, and, at the road, turn left past one of Kings Weston’s former lodges. Carry on along the pavement for 100m, and, when you come to a footpath sign on the left, cross the road to go through a gap in the hedge on the right, passing a sign for Blaise Horse Riding Trails. The path leads into Evergreens Wood, planted in the early 19th century. After a few paces, when the path forks, bear left into deep woodland. When, after 400m, you come to a broader stony track, turn right along it. When another path cuts diagonally across, carry straight on, and a little further on you will emerge into the wildflower-rich meadowland of Kings Weston Hill.
Turn right to follow a rough track through the meadow for around 1000m. After passing a mast, erected in 1966 to bring BBC2 to Bristol, a stony track leads through a kissing gate. Just beyond it, on the right, is the former Kings Weston Inn, built around 1724 to provide refreshment for visitors to the estate. After it closed in the mid-19th century, it was substantially rebuilt and served for a time as a tea room but is now a private house.
Carry on across the newly reinstated footbridge and on the far side turn right up steps onto an elevated terrace built to command views westward over Shirehampton Park and the green hills of Somerset. Before turning left along it, carry straight on to discover what lies on the other side of the high wall ahead. This is the Echo, a banqueting loggia built shortly after the house, not only to close the view but also apparently to take advantage of a naturally occurring echo.
As you retrace your steps to the terrace and head west along it, occasional glimpses of distant vistas through the trees give an inkling of the sweeping panoramas 18th-century visitors would have enjoyed. Compensation for their loss comes a little further along, as the trees on the right part to reveal superb views of the house across manicured lawns – a fitting climax to this stroll around the lost gardens of Kings Weston.
Try the walk yourself
Length of Walk: 3.5 miles
Approximate Time: 2.5 hours
Terrain: Some rough and steep paths; two main road crossings; several flights of steps
Facilities: Sir John Vanbrugh Coffee Shop in the cellars of Kings Weston House, open daily 8.30am to 4pm
Dogs: Welcome on the estate
Map: OS Explorer 155
For further information, visit the Kings Weston Action Group website kwag.org.uk
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All photos provided courtesy of Andrew Swift
