Words by Cynthia Wihardja
During my travels to Indonesia and Turkey this January, I fell in love with the vibrant world of textiles – especially Ikats and Suzanis. These fabrics are not just stunning to look at, they carry rich histories and stories that make them even more special. I’m so excited to bring them back to Bath to share with you, and I’d love to tell you a little more about them.
Let’s start with the Suzani. A Suzani is a hand-embroidered textile panel, and the word itself comes from the Persian word szan, meaning ‘needle’. These beautiful textiles originated with the nomadic tribes of Central Asia, think Tajikistan, Uzbekistan and Kazakhstan, and are now cherished for their intricate designs and the incredible skill involved in making them. Originally, they were used in yurts (nomadic tents) for everything from wrapping up belongings to prayer mats and even seating. Suzani textiles were often made by brides and their mothers as part of a dowry, and they symbolised the joining of two families. They’re full of meaningful symbols, too- luck, health, fertility and protection were all woven into the patterns. Made from cotton or sometimes silk, Suzani designs often feature the sun, moon flowers or pomegranates and other symbols of life’s cycles. The embroidery uses just four stitches, but the variety of designs is incredible. While it’s tricky to pin down exactly where they come from, Uzbekistan is widely regarded as the centre of Suzani production.
Now, let’s talk about Ikat. This fabric has been around for centuries, with origins in Indonesian archipelago and across the world, Southeast Asia to Central Asia. The Ikat process is a bit of a textile magic trick: the yarn is tied, dyed, and then woven to create intricate patterns. It’s a labour-intensive process that requires incredible skill and patience, often taking up to two years to complete a piece. Ikat has long been used in important ceremonies like weddings, funerals, and offerings, making it a symbol of both status and spirituality. Across Indonesia’s many islands, different regions have perfected their own Ikat styles, creating a rich variety of designs. The production of Ikat was so valuable that it even became a commodity in global traded, helping shape the history of the spice trade in the region.
Both Suzani and Ikat fabrics aren’t just beautiful; they’re pieces of history. They reflect the culture, creativity and craftsmanship of their makers, and through them, we connect to a shared legacy of artistry and tradition. These textiles are more than just things we hang on our walls- they’re living pieces of the past that tell a story with every thread.
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