An interview with seafood chef Nathan Outlaw

Chef Nathan Outlaw, renowned for his expertise in British seafood, shares his journey from childhood fish fingers to Michelin-starred success on the coast of Cornwall. He talks to Emma Clegg about his passion for sustainable seafood and his upcoming masterclass at The Bertinet Kitchen Cookery School.

“I wasn’t the most adventurous eater as a child – fish fingers were probably my first introduction to fish!”

A surprising statement from the chef Nathan Outlaw, who is renowned for his expertise in British seafood and has worked with some of the biggest names in the culinary world, including Gary Rhodes, Eric Chavot and Rick Stein. His career took a pivotal turn when he worked at Rick Stein’s Seafood Restaurant in Padstow, Cornwall, where his passion for fish flourished. Nathan earned his first Michelin star at St Ervan Manor in North Cornwall and later secured two stars, along with four rosettes from the AA, for his Restaurant Nathan Outlaw, which became a landmark of British fine dining. He now runs Outlaw’s New Road and Outlaw’s Fish Kitchen in Port Isaac, Cornwall, both Michelin-starred establishments.

So how did Nathan – who is running a culinary masterclass this month at The Bertinet Kitchen Cookery School in Bath – pivot from fish fingers to being a fish aficionado? “I grew up in a landlocked area near Maidstone, Kent. The spark for the sea was first lit when my parents took us to the seaside on weekends. We’d jump in the car and head straight to the beach, and so I’ve always thought of the sea as a happy place. As kids, we’d visit Cornwall during the summer holidays too, and I think that connection, combined with cooking, sparked my passion for seafood.”

Nathan’s decision to specialise in seafood was also influenced by his location in Cornwall when he started working with Rick Stein. He firmly believes that chefs should highlight the local ingredients available to them, and with the abundance of fresh fish arriving daily from Cornish fishermen in the harbour village of Port Isaac, he finds endless inspiration right on his doorstep.

I only buy from boats that are 10 metres or less where there are usually just two or three crew, which makes the fishing impact minimal.

“My work as a chef begins with my relationship with the local fishermen and fishmongers. Living surrounded by the sea every day is a huge inspiration. It’s not just the fish I work with – it’s the community too. Port Isaac is a beautiful fishing village, known for appearing in BSkyB’s Doc Martin and the Fisherman’s Friends films, and there’s always something happening – no two days are ever the same.

“It’s a close-knit community, and over the years I’ve worked hard to support local charities and integrate myself into village life. This connection has made a huge difference in what I’m able to source for the restaurant, as I’m now fully plugged into everything happening around here. My wife and children are Cornish, but I’m not, so it took some time for people to warm up to me, but now I’m a valued part of the community.”

Whenever possible, Nathan sources his fish straight from local fishermen, while also selecting fresh produce from nearby markets and farms. He follows the seasonal offerings, saying, “I let the markets tell me what’s available and I cook it,” and is deeply committed to sustainability, understanding the harmful effects of unsustainable fishing practices on the marine ecosystem. “We work with what’s available and create something great from it.”

“Overfishing is typically driven by the larger boats, but in the South West most are around 20 metres or smaller. I only buy from boats that are 10 metres or less where there are usually just two or three crew members, which makes the fishing impact minimal. I also know that these fishermen use the right nets and don’t rely on large trawlers. I can confidently tell customers which boats catch their fish and how.”

Nathan’s two restaurants in Port Isaac, Outlaw’s New Road and Outlaw’s Fish Kitchen, both specialise in seafood. “Outlaw’s Fish Kitchen draws influences from cuisines around the world. I’ve always loved Indian cuisine – it’s the ‘naughty’ one for me, with a bit of spice, a bit of heat, and sometimes focusing on shared plates, depending on the species. Meanwhile, New Road focuses on traditional British and Cornish food and is more of a traditional fine dining restaurant.”

Nathan says that he hasn’t ever developed a single signature dish, but rather a repertoire of dishes. “We stay in close contact with the fishermen and growers to know exactly what’s coming in, and it’s all about adapting and making sure we’re working with the best ingredients available. Our menu changes daily, and sometimes within the same service. For example, if I’ve got 20 people, I might only have enough turbot for 10, so I’ll switch to bass for the other 10.”

The Cookery School at The Bertinet Kitchen on 21 March, Nathan Outlaw – A Feast of Fish, offers a hands-on experience where participants can learn his philosophy of simple yet flavourful seafood cooking. The class, where Nathan will be joined in the kitchen by Richard Bertinet (Nathan jokes “He just hangs around and just takes the mickey out of me all day!”), is based on his latest book Fish for Dinner in which Nathan gives his advice on what fish to cook and how to cook it. “The morning of the class, I’ll stop by my fishmongers to choose the fish, taking into account how many people I’ll be teaching that day. Then I’ll drive straight up to Bath, and we’ll dive into the class from there. It’s a nice, hands-on way to approach it.”

The approach to the workshop mirrors Nathan’s menu planning at his restaurants: “I’ll have a general idea of what I want to do. My plan is to focus on four different species: a flatfish, a round fish, a shellfish, and a crustacean. That way, I can teach the group how to prepare each of them. Afterwards, we’ll cook lunch together using those ingredients, incorporating recipes from my books to tie everything together.”

When it comes to cooking seafood, preparation is key, explains Nathan. “The most common comment I hear from people is that their fish ends up being overcooked or too dry, and that’s because they start with the fish first. I always emphasise how first of all you want to make sure your kitchen is cold, your hands are cold, and all your equipment is cold. Fish cooks quickly, and even the warmth from your hands can affect it.

“I talk a lot about the proper storage and handling of seafood – where to get it from, and how to aim for the best quality. Once you’ve got that right, it’s about getting everything else ready – your vegetables, sauces and dressings – before you even think about cooking the fish. I remind people that fish cooks incredibly quickly, in just two or three minutes, so you need to make sure your guests are seated with a glass of wine before you cook the fish.”

Another important consideration is choosing the right technique for the right species. “If you have a piece of hake with no skin and you just pan-fry it, it will dry out. The skin acts as a protection for the flesh, and understanding how to use it properly makes all the difference. It’s also true that there is a huge difference in the preparation of fish depending on whether you’re cooking it on the bone or as a fillet.”

Nathan likes to be hands-on when he teaches, especially with a group of people with different levels of ability and different interests. “One of the things I focus on is making seafood more accessible so that people feel more confident cooking it. Lobster, for example, can be intimidating because the lobster is alive when you buy it, and people are not always sure what to do with it once they’ve get it home. Lobster is also quite expensive, so there’s a real fear of overcooking and ruining it.”

Nathan talks about the challenges of the fishing industry: “The fishing industry in Port Isaac has seen a big decline – when I started, there were 15 boats; now, there are only two. There are very few fishermen left in the village and this decline has affected both the fishing and hospitality industries. All I can do is promote the local fishing industry through my restaurants as much as possible.”

The cost of seafood also affects restaurant menus. “Seafood is probably one of the most expensive items a restaurant can put on its menu, so you’re seeing less and less of it in many places. That said, there has been an increase in the use of different species, particularly the lesser-known, cheaper options. But most restaurants tend to lean more towards plant-based dishes or meat over fish, simply because of the cost.
“To make it work, chefs get creative with seafood, using their skills to serve interesting fish dishes, but often in smaller portions. That’s one reason why smaller plates have become more popular – you can still feature interesting seafood without offering huge servings.”

In the future, Nathan is focused on helping the hospitality industry get back on track. “Right now, many restaurants are struggling, and we’re not immune to that. I have always willing to adapt and change what we do to keep our customers happy and returning, while also keeping the staff happy, and I’ll continue to do that.”

Nathan’s next project involves working with Cunard on a Mediterranean-inspired seafood menu for a restaurant on a cruise ship. “We will start in Barcelona, so we can source fish straight from their markets. So I’ll be doing what I know but adjusting it to fit a 50-60 cover restaurant on board a ship. It will be a seafood restaurant on a cruise ship with a sea view, much like our restaurants – that sounds pretty great.”