Bristol’s underpasses are home to many things. Flea markets, skate parks, the odd van dweller, street art, and plenty of foot and cycle paths. But did you know one of the city’s finest fish restaurants is also neatly sandwiched between a slip road onto the A3029 and Brunel Lock?
Family-run Noah’s comes from good stock. Opened in spring 2023 by the same team behind the mightily successful fish and chip eatery The Scallop Shell in Bath, Noah’s is well worth venturing beyond Underfall Yard for. Once you’re through the front door, you’d never even guess you were tucked between so much concrete – but the fact that you know exactly where you are does add a certain magic to the whole place.
We headed straight for the terrace out the other side, however, which has recently seen a fresh lick of paint and is an ideal spot to soak up a sunny evening session.
Considering Bristol’s inner city landscape is defined by water and its rich maritime history, to some it might feel like there’s a surprising deficit of dedicated harbourside fish restaurants (though we tip our hat to the operators we all know and love in the area doing great work). Thankfully Noah’s delivers on all kinds of fish and chip seekers’ wants and needs. Fancy a beer-battered prime north Atlantic prime cod loin (MSC approved) served mushy peas, tartare sauce & fresh cut chips? Fill your boots. Oh, you’d rather Newlyn thornback ray wing, or three hand-dived Orkney Isle scallops with garlic and fresh herb butter? Come on in.
I’ll take you on a whirlwind tour of what we tucked into in a moment. But rather than conjure all sorts of adjectives to describe how delicious each morsel was, know this: Noah’s served some of the best seafood we’d eaten in recent memory. Go there. Tell your friends. Make them go there too. Turns out underpass dining might just be one of the best ways to get your southwest seafood fix.
What we ordered
Molmenti & Celot rosé Prosecco
Bloody Mary with serve-your-own Tabasco
Glass of Moulin de Gassac, a delicately floral viognier from Languedoc
Portland Princess (Dorset) rock oyster aged red wine vinegar, shallots and lemon
Grilled wild east Atlantic prawns, with thyme, olive oil and sea salt
Grilled, hand-dived Orkney Isle scallops, with garlic and fresh herb butter
Whole south coast monkfish tail (Brixham) with rich romanesco, garlic and parsley oil
Line-caught silver mullet fillet (Newlyn) with tangy salsa verde, garlic and parsley oil
Fresh cut chips (we spied the sacks of spuds on the way in)
We were offered – and very tempted by – the offer of a half or a whole lobster brought in just a few hours before from Dorset too. Worth a special mention even though it didn’t pass our lips.
Affogato with Clifton Coffee espresso
Newly on the menu that evening lemon posset with summer fruit and shortbread, paired with a glass of Hungarian tokaj Kardos Tundermese “Fairytale” (for its delicate notes of lemon and honey).
Noah’s serves lunch from Tuesday to Sunday, 12pm until 3pm, and dinner from Tuesday to Saturday, 5pm until 9pm.
1 Brunel Lock Road, BS1 6XS; 0117 452 9240; noahsbristol.co.uk
