Rosanna Spence ventures down the rabbit hole to discover the newest French kid on the block in Bristol – Lapin – from the culinary minds behind BANK in Totterdown
French eatery Lapin (which is French for ‘rabbit / bunny’ if, like me, you’re not au fait with the lingo) has leapt onto Bristol’s dining scene, burrowing confidently into its new home in the heart of one of the city’s most exciting food quarters – the Cargo 2 containers at Wapping Wharf. Despite the restaurant only being open for a matter of weeks, Lapin’s team has turned heads in its move to boost the presence of French cuisine in the city, which remains surprisingly underrepresented (you could probably count the truly great French kitchens here on one hand).
With its white-coated front-of-house team, prix fixe menu and air of quiet sophistication, Lapin offers a loving twitch of its whiskers and a respectful nod to tradition – but this is French dining reimagined. There’s a playful, modern Bristolian twinkle in this rabbit’s eye.
Helmed by restaurateur Dan O’Regan and executive chef Jack Briggs-Horan – the powerhouse duo behind award-winning fire restaurant BANK Bristol in Totterdown – Lapin takes the time-honoured blueprint of classic French cooking but mischievously tears out a few pages. And it works. The moment you step through the door, you’re greeted by the intoxicating aroma of toasted, nutty brown butter as the dishes fly across the pass, becoming richer and more decadent by the minute. A playful nod to the restaurant’s namesake, tiny rabbit emblems pop up everywhere from table-tops to tableware.
We briefly considered the excellent-value prix fixe menu (just £29 and offered daily in limited numbers), but couldn’t resist going à la carte to explore more of what was on offer, kicking things off with slices of south west Westcombe saucisson and a golden-crusted baguette served with salted butter.
Drinks-wise, front-of-house team Tiernan and Carole have compiled a wine list that spans more than 60 wines available by the glass, celebrating both French vintages and global takes on classic French varietals, and a welcome mix of household names and lesser-known bottles. For anyone daunted by the sheer scope, tasting note categories help guide your choice, whether you’re after a white that’s ‘crisp, mineral and refreshing’ or ‘textural, buttery and complex.’
Our aperitif? Two chilled glasses of Lillet Blanc and Rouge, served crisp over ice; refreshing and reminiscent of my dining partner’s mother’s homemade Pineau des Charentes.
Moving onto starters, I had the gloriously chunky Wye Valley asparagus (bang in season) served with a classic sauce gribiche and a generous drizzle of that aforementioned aromatic beurre noisette, topped with toasted nuts to bring out the caramelisation of the butter. (Note: save yourself some baguette to mop your plate). It was fresh, rich, and the first of many moments where I let out an audible sigh of pleasure on the first bite. My friend’s rabbit rillettes was delicate, paired beautifully with carrot confiture – she noted how tender the meat was.
For mains, my Provençal barigoule swapped out the usual artichoke for fennel, nestled in a tangy stew that was bright and rich with olives and aioli. My friend’s confit duck arrived crisp-skinned, sitting proud atop a springtime cassoulet studded with smoky kielbasa and topped with an impressively-sized tomato, slow-roasted until sweet. Carole suggested a glass of skin-contact Calcaires Nord Domaine Monplézy from the Languedoc to pair with my friend’s confit duck – one of two skin-contact wines on offer. I fancied something white and buttery for my stew and was recommended the Felicite Domaine Monplézy, a blend of Marsanne and Rousanne. As a digestif-cum-dessert, I went for the traditional trou Normand – an cleansing mix of apple brandy and apple sorbet designed to “clear a hole” in the stomach for more indulgence. And it worked… I couldn’t resist sneaking a few spoons of my friend’s dessert, the St Émilion au Chocolat that was rich and indulgent with hints of amaretti and a topped with crunchy biscuit.
On my next visit, I’ll be carving out time (and space) for Lapin’s show-stopping whole roast duck crown à l’orange; a 45-minute wait, but seeing the crisp skin, blushing meat and a bitter-sweet bigarade sauce served to others on my visit already has me planning my return.
Other highlights we almost ordered, but are firmly on the radar for next time: pig’s head salad with forced dandelion, lobster bisque a l’Americaine en croûte, rabbit leg with boudin noir and apples, and skate wing with brown butter hollandaise and sea vegetables. And let’s not forget the duck fat frites, green beans with persillade – plus add-ons like a spoon of caviar or a scoop of Rollright cheese. For dessert, maybe the Basque cheesecake with rhubarb. Or the éclair Suzette. Or… both?
Lapin bounds effortlessly between old school and new ideas. Upon opening, owner and founder Dan said: “I think it’s fair to say we’ll be one of the more relaxed and convivial places where you can enjoy a decent spoonful of caviar.” And I couldn’t agree more.
Arrive hungry, come prepared to consume lots of butter and be assured that French cooking in Bristol has just become even more exciting.
lapinbristol.co.uk | Unit 14, Cargo 2, Museum Street, BS1 6ZA
