The word ‘loafer’ could mean two things. As well as being a rather comfy leather shoe that’s easy to slip on and off, a loafer could also be someone who avoids work, preferring instead to idly spend their time meandering through life at a much slower pace. I know which one I’d rather be, and it’s the same relaxed outlook that inspired the family team behind Loafer on Henleaze High Street, which is celebrating its first birthday this summer and reflecting on a successful year having “changed the game” (according to a note left by one happy customer) in this utterly delightful, leafy corner of our city.
Though if we’re honest, brothers Tim and Damien – who were brought up in Bristol and live just up the road from their venue – are anything but loafers. They’ve been working tirelessly to ensure their new eatery hits all the right spots throughout the day and into the evening. The pair are no strangers to hospitality. They also run a popular Chinese takeaway on Whiteladies Road, and have been involved with operating various kinds of restaurant or establishment in the area their entire lives.
Loafer embodies everything that’s great about Bristol’s indie food scene: an easy, relaxed venue that’s a coffee-cum-breakfast/brunch/lunch spot during the day; a chilled, small plates restaurant in the evening pouring local drinks; owners that live in the community they serve; an eagerness and willingness to take a flexible approach to running a venue, opening their doors to locals for bespoke events, welcoming people in for a drink while they transform the venue from day to night service, and a playful menu that gets tweaked seasonally by the chefs who want to make sure there are delicious options for all tastes and preferences.
Left: a crowd fave- shiitake and parmesan arancini, Right: a summery dish of smoked salmon carpaccio
Loafin’ around
Entering the world of coffee shops was a natural progression for the brothers, whose speciality had been operating evening venues. But this nocturnal work schedule meant they spent much of their days passing time in coffee shops (dare we say, loafing around) and preparing for the busy service ahead. So in Loafer Tim and Damien – along with co-owners Tommy and Mark – have created a space that they themselves would have loved to hang out in.
It can comfortably seat around 30 covers, but the layout feels airy and intimate rather than cramped, and there’s a gentle buzz when the tables fill… lively without being hectic. Art from local creatives adorns the walls (and is available to buy), alongside vintage photos of Bristol streets that nod to the venue’s local pride.
And while we’re on the subject of local ethos, much of the menu is sourced from businesses on the nearby high street, with a strong focus on regional ingredients. There’s also Bristol Beer Factory on tap, locally-made kombucha and regular collaborations with trusted partners like DBM Wines, who plan to host a tasting evening in September. And every table is welcomed with fresh homemade flatbreads and hummus, a small touch that feels effortlessly generous. By day, Loafer caters to a varied local crowd, including young families, laid-back freelancers and out-of-towners who’ve heard the brunch is worth the detour. Crowd favourites include smashed avo on toast, golden and generously filled croissants, and a rich, spiced shakshuka, alongside a satisfyingly broad menu of sweet and savoury options. And there’s the coffee, sourced from much-loved Bristol roaster Wogan, which is a draw in itself.
Then as the sun sets, the menu shifts into a seasonally changing celebration of small plates inspired by flavours from around the globe. Highlights include the Tenderstem broccoli with crispy parsnip shavings and a balsamic glaze that brings satisfying crunch and depth. A beetroot dish — which Tim and Damien, who are devoted meat eaters, admit to being one of the top bites on offer — is layered with silky cream cheese and pistachios, its delicate sweetness offset by a nutty richness.
There are subtle nods to the team’s Asian heritage, too. The arancini, for example, are packed with umami from rehydrated Chinese shiitake mushrooms (the soaking water is used to cook the rice, no flavour wasted), and blended with parmesan to create a rich, truffle-like decadence that sidesteps any risk of dryness. Tim explains that three plates per person to share around is usually enough, but who’s counting?
For dessert, don’t miss the trio of profiteroles that are impossibly light, filled with soft cream, drizzled with molten chocolate and topped with a little pistachio crunch.
From July, new summer dishes are set to appear: expect prawn, avocado and mango coulis (bright, tangy and balanced), a fragrant, refined smoked salmon carpaccio and plump meatballs in a Bolognese-style sauce that’s so satisfying you won’t miss the spaghetti.
New for summer: Left – Tenderstem broccoli and beetroot with cream cheese, Right – Prawn, avocado and mango
Local legacy
On Wednesday evenings, the team is experimenting with opening the space up for bespoke private events, from intimate milestone gatherings to curated tasting evenings. Whether you’re celebrating with friends or raising a glass with family, the focus remains firmly on connection, flavour and community.
Loafer continues the independent legacy left by the site’s former occupant, Kondi Brasserie, which shuttered in August 2023 after many successful years serving the village. And although a day-to-night isn’t exactly a brand-new restaurant concept, when it’s done well, epitomising everything that’s wonderful about our city’s indie food scene, and improving the quality of life for locals, what’s not to love?
And here’s some good news for people who live further afield: there’s more free parking around Henleaze High Street than you can shake a stick at, catapulting the village to the top of your convenient day out list. From the new summer dishes to the promising potential of bespoke events, it appears Loafer has really found its feet in the village (I wonder if it needs some of those comfy leather shoes to boot?).
Loafer is open 8am-4pm Monday to Wednesday; 8am-4pm, then 5pm-9pm Thursday to Saturday; and 10am-4pm Sunday. For the full menus and more info, visit the website loafercoffee.co.uk and follow the team on Instagram @loafer.coffee.
Call 0117 452 2428 to book.
105 Henleaze Rd, Henleaze, BS9 4JP | loafercoffee.co.uk
