When Moe Rahman from Bandook asks if you’re hungry, you say ‘yes’. You certainly do not tell him how
many Quality Street you’ve already eaten, writes India Farnham
Ah, Bristol at Christmas time. The lights. The markets. The carols. And a million panic-shoppers funnelling through Cabot Circus to the new M&S. Call me a grinch (and yes, I will do the Jim Carrey impression), but during the festive season the city centre can be a bit much for me. I tend to find it, as the kids say, rather overstimulating.
Thankfully, the destination we’re off to today is set in the indie-cool oasis that is Wapping Wharf. Here, perched above the hustle and bustle below and among some of the trendiest eateries you’ve ever seen, is where you’ll find Bandook, undoubtedly one of our city’s most loved restaurants.
Bandook, born from the team behind fine-dining Indian favourite the Mint Room, is known for its elevated mix of authentic, casual dining Indian street food dishes made with ‘good, British ingredients’.
This relaxed approach to dining translates into a festive menu that is everything Christmas should be: warm, colourful and surprisingly straightforward. £30 per person covers three courses, only two of which you have to actually decide on, veggies and carnivores alike. In the words of a certain meerkat, ‘simples’.
To start
Well, it seems all that’s left to do then is order a cocktail. We tried the silky-smooth Drunken Mango Lassi, which came with a slice of mango and felt like a sip of long-ago sunshine.
Starters arrive as a family of small plates, including my dining partner’s ‘death row final meal’ starter, Samosa Chaat, which has such a satisfying crunch and kick that I reckon I’ll be requesting it on my death bed too. Alongside the Samosa Chaat are some super-moreish Pani Puri, Gobi, and my favourite, the sticky, semi-sweet Tamarind Wings of my dreams.
The main event
Main courses here are showstopper-type affairs, presented alongside ample accompaniments in a satisfying assortment of shiny silver dishes, including a velvety Kurkurit Bhindi and a warming Daal Fry.
The Awadhi Duck Biryani is presented to us with a golden top of shortcrust pastry which is opened up professionally at our table to reveal a steaming, buttery centre topped with gem-like pomegranate seeds. Duck meat falls off of its bone effortlessly and joins the deliciousness.
Dessert caters both for those who are after something smooth and those who are after something sharp. We tried the Warm Gulab Jamun with Kulfi – syrupy, creamy and delicately spiced – but there is also a Cranberry Sorbet on offer, ideal for cleansing your palate after such rich decadence of the previous dishes.
Final thoughts
With its cheerful, quirky interior, peppered with colonial-era decorations, and cosy size, Bandook has that special lived-in quality that so many restaurants aim for. It’s also achieved another nebulous but highly sought-after quality: a buzz. Huzzah for open kitchens and well-judged background music.
Altogether, this is a confident, no-nonsense festive menu from a restaurant that knows its strength is in its simplicity. Spend time there with loved ones, friends, co-workers, neighbours – heck, anyone you want to break bread with and get to know better. It’ll be time well spent.
Christmas menu is available until 24 December.
Bandook Restaurant, Unit 17, Cargo 2, Museum Street, BS1 6ZA | bandookkitchen.com
